Ask any dermatologist which one ingredient you should diligently apply in your skincare regime and they’ll almost unanimously wax lyrical about retinol and the best retinol serums. Now, this much-lauded ingredient is delivered in a new format: retinol oil.
So what kind of retinol formulation should you opt for? And what’s the difference between retinol oil, serum, and cream?
What is retinol oil?
Part of what makes retinol so great is that in addition to helping prevent wrinkles, it also helps speed cell turnover, increases collagen, and brightens skin tone. On the flip side, retinol lives under a blanket of suspicion because it can also irritate the skin, leaving it red, flaky, and sore—otherwise known as retinol peeling.
But now this anti-wrinkle ingredient has found its way into a slew of face oils that claim to coddle the skin without irritation for those of us with sensitive or dry skin types.
Dermatologist Josh Zeichner MD explains their appeal: “Oils are becoming increasingly popular in skincare. They contain natural emollient ingredients to help hydrate the skin. Oils are a great vehicle to deliver retinol because they may help minimize associated skin irritation. Oils also tend to be advantageous for people with drier skin.”
It sounds pretty simple—but one important thing to note is that switching from a retinol cream to an oil might mean you’ll also need to change up the order in which you use your skincare products.
“A retinol oil can be easily integrated into your routine; however, since they’re oils, applying one would be a later step in the routine since retinol oils aren’t water-soluble and therefore don’t penetrate as rapidly,” says Zeichner, who suggests using them on top of non-oiled based products, like hydrating serums.
What is the difference between retinol oil, retinol serum, and retinol cream?
Retinol has traditionally always been delivered via a serum or a cream. And while the hydrating properties of oil can help prevent irritation, it has no impact on the hero-worthy powers of retinol—meaning it’s just as potent as it would be in a serum or cream.
“The active ingredients of all retinol products are similar, it’s just the base that’s different,” explains Zeichner. “Your skin type should dictate what type of formulation is used to deliver the retinol.”
Which retinol product is right for my skin?
Regardless of the formula you choose, the action of the ingredient is the same, as are the results. “It makes no difference in the performance of vitamin A [retinol is a vitamin in the vitamin A family] if the product is oil-soluble or water-soluble,” says Simeroth. “In either form, what’s important is the concentration of retinol in the product and how well the supporting ingredients provide delivery of the vitamin.”
Best retinol oils: our top picks
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